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Inks And Recipes

Discussion in 'Tools and tips' started by Enmity, Nov 6, 2007.

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  1. Enmity

    Enmity Elite Member

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    The basics

    (Ira Sanky of 12oz)
    There's two main things you can use as a base for your recipe: inks/dyes, or bucket paint. Ink and bucket paint do not mix with each other.

    If you're into getting custom colors that no one else has, get yourself some small containers of bucket paint. Two recommended brands are Rustoleum and One-Shot. While most people have heard of Rusto and know of it for its thickness, One Shot is less well known but has a lot of nice colors and comes out super glossy or metallic. Sign painters use it for their work; its tough shit and it contains lead, so be careful. Bucket paint is not as permanent as a lot of inks, and really does not stain too well at all, but it usually will not weather away quickly and is still slightly hard to buff. Make sure you get oil-based. You can't put paint in most markers, so it's recommended that you put it in a mop, preferably a Kiwi. If you want more drips, be sure to thin out the paint with mineral spirits. Do NOT thin with xylene if your mop is plastic, as xylene eats plastic away.

    Onto the inks. If you're into shit that stains hard, love the colors black and/or violet, and want your shit to last long and sink deep into the surface, this is the shit for you. Pretty much every ink is alcohol based, as is leather dye. Marsh ink is about the most well known in the US. In my experiences, it's not that much different from Pilot ink, though a little more expensive and slightly harder to buff (but it's not going to make much of a difference). Anyways, ink looks good on a wall, flows well through the marker, and is relatively hard to buff, but usually won't stain hard or leave a ghost. Now, on to leather dye. This is the shit when it comes to nice colors, leaving a nasty stain, and being some of the hardest shit to buff. So why don't you just use leather dye as ink and leave out the Marsh/Pilot ink? Well, truth is, it looks like fucking water color paint when applied to a wall, and it doesn't flow as well. You have to mix it with ink. Some popular brands are Griffin, which you can find at Walgreen’s, and Fiebing's. The hardest staining colors made by Fiebing's are violet and red. Be very careful when handling this shit - if it drips anywhere in the house, it's damn hard to clean off. Now on to brake fluid. Why do people use brake fluid in there recipes? Brake fluid is corrosive and eats through paint and into the wall, kind of like what etch does to glass, except not as permanent. Anyways, it's good stuff. You can find it at Walgreen’s, also. Make sure you get DOT3 and don't add too much into your recipe.
    Last edited: May 11, 2008
  2. Enmity

    Enmity Elite Member

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    by: Hint (Jet)


    pens (40 per 1/2 cup of alcohol, at Target they were 10 for $.35)
    View attachment 315513

    alcohol (at least 91%, at Target it costs $1.79)
    View attachment 315514

    measuring cup
    View attachment 315515

    jar with lid
    View attachment 315516

    bottle to put finished ink in (not pictured)

    ok so get your pens ready, for this batch I used 90 black pens and 10 blue pens to make 1 and a half cups of ink. Normally I would use more pens but since there was a lot of leftover residue from my last batch of ink I used a litle bit less.
    View attachment 315517

    now measure our your alcohol and pour it into your jar. The ratio that I reccomend is at least 40 pens per half cup but you can do whatever you want.
    View attachment 315518

    cut the pens about an inch below the tip, you can use scissors but it fucks them up, I use wire cutters.
    View attachment 315519

    toss the top of the pen in and pull the white tube out of the body.
    View attachment 315520

    if you hold the tube up to a light, you can see that less than half of it actually has ink in it. cut the tube where the ink ends and toss the piece with the ink onto your jar, this saves space because if you don't do it, you won't be able to get all of your pens wet enough for the alcohol to suck out the ink.

    this picture is a uncut tube next to the part of the tube that actually has ink in it.
    View attachment 315521

    as you can see it is ok for the pens not to be covered by the alcohol as long as at least one of the sides is under the alcohol.
    View attachment 315522

    let it sit overnight.

    this is what mine looked like in the morning.
    View attachment 315523

    now pour it into the bottle you keep your ink in, be careful to not get and of the tubes in.
    View attachment 315524

    this is a drip from transferring bottles, I put it here so you can see how opaque the ink is even before I added anything.
    View attachment 315525

    add ins:

    Dot 3
    reburnt paper
    other inks/dyes etc.

    for this batch all I added was about a cap of Dot 3.
    View attachment 315526

    now go rack a 2 way glue pen,
    View attachment 315527

    fill that bitch up
    View attachment 315528

    add a mixer
    View attachment 315529

    tape it, because it will leak if you don't
    View attachment 315530

    and crush shit!
    View attachment 315531

    this ink is permanent as fuck. I hit a doorway with one of my friends. he used an OTR and I used this ink. A week later his tag was buffed but mine was bareley faded from the buff, a couple weeks later they just painted it over, with black.


    Originally Posted by djren
    1.Get some Carbon Paper(it has to be the purple kind the black kind wont work), Scissors, and a paper to put the cut up pieces on.
    [Broken External Image]:
    2.cut a piece of the carbon paper into small pieces, then place the cut up pieces on the paper in the center.
    [Broken External Image]: the cut up pieces on paper and pure them in a bottle like this one:
    [Broken External Image]:
    [Broken External Image]:
    4.after u have put the pieces in the bottle, put gasoline/ lighter fluids and shake it until its purple.
    [Broken External Image]:

    (edited by smooth nuts this kid cant type for shit haha....i lefts out the last 2 pics because they had nothing to do with making the ink just how to fill up a "spray bottle"

    (Ira Sanky of 12oz):
    Get a jar. Put in either Pilot ink or Marsh as your base, and add some Griffin, less than or equal to the amount of Pilot. Now get some Fiebing's leather dye, and add it to the batch, preferably red or purple, as they stain the hardest. Next, get some brake fluid, and give a generous amount - not too little, but definitely not too much as it will affect the flow. Mix that shit around. You can also try boiling them together and then using a thinner, as they'll thicken when heated. Personally, I've never tried heating / boiling any of my inks. If you want, you can try adding Gentian Violet or Methylene Blue (the additive).

    Ink mix
    (Ira Sanky of 12oz):
    any 3 high quality inks, (marsh, griff, pilot, I like city wide)
    leather dye, (dark red is nice)
    Pearl Ex, (this is the flashy part of the mix)
    acetone, (or any thinner)

    ok, take your inks, mix them up in a pot you don't care about and put over low-med heat. Stir until it gets just a little thick, stop & remove from heat. Now your 3 inks have formed one "super ink", but you’re not nearly done. Now mix in your leather dye and stir. If your mixture is still too thick, thin it up with some acetone, the thinner the drippier, (obviously). now take your Pearl Ex, (this can be found in most to all arts and crafts stores. its used to add sparkle to paint or really anything. the particles are about 10 microns which is plenty small enough to flow through any marker nib. it comes an a variety of colors and is about 5 bucks a jar.), and dump in a bunch and stir. The more of it you add the more sparkle your tags will have, it will also tint your ink a little depending on the color. If you put in a lot and your stuff gets thick again, use more thinner. It makes buffing quite a pain in the ass and makes your hand styles sparkle like hell. I love it. Oh, by the way, if anyone is interested, you can obtain methelyne blue at most pet stores, it’s used commonly in fish tanks.

    Posted by rogue

    Any Color Woodstain- Oil based
    Mineral Spirits
    a few fish oil tablets

    Red Fiebings
    3 Fish Oil Tablets
    Solvent Red 24
    Red Pen Ink
    And maybe a little alcohol if it's too thick
    Blue Fiebings
    3 Fish Oil tablets
    Methylene Blue
    Solvent Blue 38
    Maybe some pen ink and alcohol aswell

    1 bottle Fiebings Purple
    1 bottle of Purple PVC Primer
    Gentian Violet
    3 Fish Oil tablets
    And some Solvent Violet 8
    Simple Ink
    Mix 3/4 woodstain
    3 drops dot 3 or fish oil capsules
    1/4 Good Shoepolish (not Kiwi or some shit)
    Last edited: May 11, 2008
  3. Enmity

    Enmity Elite Member

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    posted by:bizerk

    ultra hard staining recipie

    Oil stain
    raven oil
    wood stain
    feibings or griffin leather dye or ridge ink.

    with 1/2 potassium permanganate 1/2 black cherry coolaid powder as adative. half a bottle cap of each and 2 drops of fish oil..

    Fumers Patanted Ink!!

    3 pen inks (preferably black and red)
    300ml of methylated spirits
    two splashes of any pertinent ink (corio,pilot,nero,grog)
    carbon paper dust

    mix all together in a bottle or jar and let it all sit for a day or two
    and depending on how much carbon dust you add its fairly opaque.


    Aussie Lads
    representing asdf

    Red paint mix
    by: ???

    you want one of these in any red color:
    Make sure its Oil based and 8oz will do you(doesn't need to be the door paint either).

    You need some of this:
    [Broken External Image]:
    It's super cheap, and you can the smallest amount you can find of any thinner.
    Next you want this(OIL BASED!!):
    [Broken External Image]:

    In this color:
    Red Mahogany 225
    [Broken External Image]:

    Finally, some of this:
    [Broken External Image]:

    1.Take the full 8oz tin of the rusto oil based red and pour it into the empty
    knob creek bottle(not all of it will come out, but thats ok).

    2.Next take 1oz of the thinner(+/- .5oz) and put it into the rusto tin that
    you just emptied. The will break up the paint that wouldn't come out.

    3.Put 2oz of the Oil based Minwax red wood stain into the tin with the thinner.
    Close the rusto tin tight and shake the shit out of it.

    4.Open the tin and pour the new contents into the bottle of paint. Close the
    bottle, and shake the shit out of it. Let it sit, and repeat.

    5.Open the bottle and add 1oz of the Dot3 Break fluid(less IS more). Shake!

    Thats it. If it's too thick, add .5oz of the Minwax wood stainer.
    Consider this one... a freebie!

    Good luck.
    Junobo's mix is way better than this and worth the loot.
    Oinks ink is ridiculously better than this mix, but it's not red... Yet.
    DED... same thing.

    Acrylic paint mix
    pics by sir one .

    1 bottle of acrylic paint
    add water

    Last edited: Feb 4, 2008
  4. Enmity

    Enmity Elite Member

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    2/3 OIL BASED bucket paint of ANY color.
    1/3 Paint thinner

    Ghetto Junobo Recipe Number ????

    white oil based rusto
    mustard powder
    colord acylic paint

    - OTR INKS(Flowpen,h2b etc.):Nice colors.Weather proof.Basically the only good things about them.No stains whatsoever.

    - Do 'Em Dirty: Stains nicely.Two types

    - DOD INSIDE JOB:Good for Porous surfaces(Usually unglossy)Stains very nice.Opaque and nice colors.Good for insides(buses,trains,anything transit)

    - DOD OUTDOORSMEN:Good for street shots.VERYVERY opaque black.Stains but not as hard as inside job.Leaves a glossy finish after drying.Long lasting no fading.

    - ACEES WITCHES BREW : very thick very black and very hard to get off

    - Garvey: Comes in violet.There is also black and green,but those are straight from the company only.Garvey is a price marking ink.It is very opaque.Stains very hard.Adding brake fluid will make it stain very much harder.It fades very fast though.Very good for insides.

    - Grog:A deep rich black or silver. Sinks into porous surfaces.Stains well on certain plastics but is known to "bleed" on other surfaces.

    - Corio: ???


    - Nero: ???

    - Pilot:Stains but only hard solvents will remove,nice color.Fades fast(certain colors)Black or blue are the best colors to choose from.

    - Marsh:Like pilot ink but a little bit better.There are colors to choose from.Black is very nice and dark.Somewhat flat black(Unglossy).You can add it to other inks to make them thicker or change the color/shade.

    - Leather dye(Lincoln,.Fiebings,griffin,etc.):Very nice ink.Cheap(If you buy).Comes in nice brilliant c colors.Stains lightweight but it is enough.Add dot3 to make it stain even harder(recommended)It is slightly thin so I suggest to add other inks into it to make it thicker.

    - Rasco:???

    - Mr.Black/silver/gold:

    - Bombersbest:???

    - OINK Ink: It is extrememly hard to paint over. But if buffs fairly easily on most transit systems with a very slight stain that is no stronger than a regular pen ink stain. It fades on outdoor surfaces fairly fast (couple weeks does some serious damage in direct sunlight) - JET

    - Junobo Paint: good, drips well.. gives buffers a hard time. not that permanent but has some dope colors if you like to spend money.-enmity

    - India ink: Water based. black opaque ..Comes off with water and soap.

    - Sumi Ink: water based black opaque.. comes off with water and soap

    - DOT3 (Brake fluid),Fish oil,Cod oil:Used to SLOW down the drying time of inks or whatever you added it into.Works BEST on inks,not paints.

    - Alcohol: is your last resort to thinning things.

    - Krylon Gloss finish(Comes in tiny bottles): good to add into inks.It leaves a glossy finish.

    - Iodine :stains semi brown, add sugar before hand to add a blue tint to your tag
    it stains super hard, and is added 5-6 drops to about 1 cup of ink

    - Methelyene Blue:Gives you a nice blue stain
    Don't add too much of it cause it just settles at
    the bottom of you ink doesn't affect it if you
    add too much but youdon't want to waste the powder.

    - Gentian Violet:Gives you a nice purple stain just add it to your
    ink or someone elses.

    - Pottassium Permanganate:
    Gives you a nice black stain i am pretty sure alot
    of ink destributers (related to graff) add this to
    their ink but if you don't think so just add some
    to their ink. (Methelyene Blue) (Pottassium Permanganate) (Gentian Violet)

    - Paint thinner: just like it says thins youR paint only oil-based.
    Paint thiner avalible at any hardware store and probaly many
    brands so it doesn't matter.

    -Xylene: Paint Thinner but it will eat away at plastic.
    *Do not use in kiwi mops*
    It can eat a hole through mops and will leak everywhere
    make sure you check other inks to see if they contain Xylene
    so you don't accidently put in a plastic mop.

    -Mineral Spirits: Is another Paint thinner which i prefer Mineral spirits over normal paint thinner.

    - Japan Drier: Will speed up the process of Dry for oil-based paint, enamel and varnish.

    - Griffin Shoe Dye: I have never used it but i am pretty sure it comes
    in black, white and brown will add a bit of staining
    to you ink.

    - Raven Oil: Heard it is pretty good comes in about 20 assorted.

    - Fiebings Leather Dye: From what i have heard it is the Best and most powerful
    leather dye comes in tons of colors.


    -Paint:Oil-based any brand, but normally i stick to Rustoleum.
    One-Shot comes in all kinds of colors very expensive. (used by sign painters)

    - Woodstain:adds staining power to you ink or paint
    various colors. (can get it at hardware store)

    - Pearl Ex: Metallic powder that you can add to ink to give it a shiney or
    mettalic color. (can get it at micheals usually)

    -Acrylic paint: can be thinned with water,But its not going to last through the buff.

    If mixing inks,mix dark into light.Better results.

    thx to libra25 and whoever else

    EXPERIMENT EXPERIMENT EXPERIMENT!Thats the best you can do.

    Last edited: Mar 4, 2008
  5. Enmity

    Enmity Elite Member

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    (dangerous chemicals/vapor use caution. avoid contact with skin and eyes)

    Etch bath-

    Etch cream-

    Spraycan paint mix

    by :sk8er6

    Probably the most thrifty ass way to get/mix paint for mops:

    so i finaly got my hands on one of those generic squeeze mop type bottles at hobby lobby, but i had nothing to rock in it cuz i was tired of ghetto krink. So i decided to try to mix a metallic color. i got my ghetto krink(rustoleum aluminum bucket paint and paint thinner), and a can of green paint from the dollar general. i got one of my mixing caps(those might be the heaviest caps in the history of the planet) and a heavy piece of metal, then let the can spray upside down on its own by putting the metal on it while it was upside down until it stopped spraying.

    then i got a nail and hammer, a large screw, and a screwdriver.

    i popped two holes in opposite sides in the rim of the can. one to pour out of it, and another to let the air flow. i enlarged the pouring hole with the screw, and poured it into a coke bottle with a funnel.(there is not a lot of paint in a can, most of the weight is compressed air). i the cap back on, and shook it and opened it to let gas release for about an hour. (its not so bad when your watching TV) so when no more gas released,i cut a soda bottle in half to use as a mixing bowl. got my ghetto krink and my green formerly spraypaint. dollar store paint doesnt need thinning!, but you might no be so lucky. if its still thick, add some mineral spirts until its the consistencey of milk. and mixed the two. i cant remember the ratios , but i ended up getting a metallic military green. im happy with it though.

    If your going to be mixing your own paints for mops and markers, i suggest you store them in glue bottles(depending on how big your batch is. my batch wasnt that much after i filled the mop. maybe i could fill it twice more. because when you want to refill it, you just open the tip and squeeze.
    Black Ghetto Garvey: stolen

    Things you need:
    Black Pens
    Mixing container
    coffee filter

    -Go get some charcoal, REAL charcoal, preferably willow. Pinecones work too. Do not use BBQ charcoal, as it's mixed with sand, you're best option is to make it yourself, or go down to the beach, there's usually some driftwood with a thick layer of charcoal.
    -Next you're going to need to break the charcoal into small peices and grind it up, a coffee grinder works well. Make sure it's a fine powder, use a pestle and mortor if you have to. (Pestle and motor is a bowl and round stick used in cooking certain cultural dishes... Or summoning dragons.)
    -Alchohol, the higher percent the better.
    -Pour the alchohol into a large container with a sealed lid, add more charcoal than you think you need.
    -Shake as much as possible, let it sit for a while (a day if you can) and shake some more.
    -Pour through a coffee filter into another container, and back through the filter into the original container. This takes out any insoluable charcoal.
    -Test your ink.
    -If it's decently opaque break open some black pens and get as much in there as needed, it should be as opaque as india ink. (don't worry it doesn't buff nearly as easy)
    -Get some additives in there (fish oil, methylene blue, gentian violate(sp) etc.)
    -If it's not very opaque (before the pens) add more powdered charcoal and repeat the previous steps as neccesary.

    Tips: The longer you let it sit the better, warming the alchohol also helps to mix it, although. I don't suggest it, as some people in here may light themselves on fire.

    This doesn't stain as hard as regular garvey, but it doesn't fade as easily in the sun. It also works a lot better than the original ghetto garvey (violet)

    DO NOT's

    Last edited: Feb 18, 2008
  6. Enmity

    Enmity Elite Member

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    CREATOR: ???

    First thing get your mop or ink. You can use this in a marker just depends if you want it to be thinner.

    [Broken External Image]:

    Get your thinner. I put it in a old water bottle. I should mark it before someone drinks the shit when there drunk one night. Makes it much easier to use.

    [Broken External Image]:

    The paint and Dye.

    [Broken External Image]:

    Your empty mop. Check the bottom of the page on where to buy. They are just like the KRINK 2 ounce bottles. Exactly the same. Same nib and all.

    [Broken External Image]:

    Ok now add your break fluid. Dont add to much cause if you add too much your Paink wont dry. Well it will dry but it will take forever.

    [Broken External Image]:
    [Broken External Image]:

    Now get your paint. Use Acrylic. Paint from a rusto can or anything else really wont mix. Make sure you use a funnel so you dont waste paint or make a damn mess.

    Fill up the bottle about 45% - 50%. If you want the Paink to be thinner add less Paint more Dye.

    [Broken External Image]:

    Now onto the dye. When you have decided on how much paint you want add your dye. I filled it up to the neck just for insurance reasons.

    [Broken External Image]:

    Now go ahead and ass your BB's or Ball Bearing. A nut will do just as well. Just make sure there clean or your shit will get clogged up. The bb's I have seem to work great since there small and can get all around the bottom and shit. Just put like 6 in.

    [Broken External Image]:

    Now shake it.

    [Broken External Image]:

    There is your finished product nice and clean!

    [Broken External Image]:

    Now for a little test. (The paint isnt to thick or to thin to me and drips like a mofucker.)

    [Broken External Image]:

    Now where to get your product's for use.

    For your Paint's and Dye's.

    For your 2 OZ. Bottles.

  7. Enmity

    Enmity Elite Member

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    .. then go out and blast shit


    Originally Posted by Rogue
    (I know I or somone else has said them all before, but just to bump the info)

    GK Additives

    Hydrochloric Acid (Found in Home Depot/Lowes in the outdoor section)
    Japan Drier or Ether (Found at any art store or Home Depot/Lowes)
    Paint Hardener or Poly (Same as above)
    Linseed Oil (Art Stores)
    Butimen (Kind of hard to find, I've seen it at Home Depot before, just look around)

    MarkWell/MTN/Posterman paint.

    Now, you can always just thin acrylic paint with water, but that will reduce the opacity of the paint.

    Acrylic paint is acrylic polymer emulsion mixed with pigment.

    The more polymer emulsion, the thinner your mix will be.

    First take about 3/4 pigment to 1/4 water or 1/2 pigment to 1/2 water. Mix them together.

    Next add as much acrylic emulsion as needed to make it your desired consistency.

    Last edited: Apr 22, 2008
  8. Enmity

    Enmity Elite Member

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    Steel ball tips for bottles
    thanks mime1



    color: black

    1/4 coaltar 1/4 carbon, 2/4 solvent black dye
    diluted 2/3 pigment to a mixture
    1/4 Bitunol
    1/4 Methanol
    2/4 Isopropyl 99.99%
    with 3ml of naptha
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2008
  9. Enmity

    Enmity Elite Member

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    Originally Posted by H3TT1NG3R [​IMG]
    a list of THINNERS for you people.

    -paitn thinner
    -mineral spirits
    -linseed oil
    -de-natured alcohol(not reccomended)
    -turpentine(smells liek pinesol)

    -de-natured alcohol
    -rubbign alcohol
    -wood hardener(MEK+shit)

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